Tag Archives: ancient food

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Showcasing the Indigenous Rice, Curries and Food history of Thailand at Wana Yook!

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I am in a dilemma about where to begin, should I talk about Chef Chalee Kader or Wana Yook? Because one simply does not make sense without the other. His food, the space, the philosophy, everything is intertwined. And that is the magic. Chef Chalee is not just cooking, he is redefining conversations around food in Thailand. Whether it is his Isaan-inspired cuisine, his commitment to nose-to-tail (or as he says, “brain to balls”) utilisation, his focus on sustainability or the way he elevates something as humble and comforting as rice and curry, the man is driving serious change in the culinary scene.

Wana Yook itself is a story. Set inside an old restored house wrapped in lush greenery, it almost feels like stepping into a miniature Amazon forest in the heart of Bangkok. For me, when it comes to experiential dining, every detail matters, the ambiance, the energy, the emotion of the space. Wana Yook gets all of it right.

We were welcomed warmly with champagne at the bar before heading to my favourite space in any restaurant, the kitchen. From that moment on, the meal unfolded like a beautifully crafted narrative. Every course had a story, a regional memory, or an ingredient with deep cultural roots.

From the ceviche to the wagyu, the broth, the fermented eggs, the fried gourami, the softshell crabs, the Shima Aji, the crab dumpling, and of course the iconic Khao & Kaeng, the experience was layered, emotional, and filled with nuance. The table full of curries and accompaniments towards the end is such a heartfelt nod to how families in Thailand eat, abundance, comfort and warmth.

We ended on a sweet note with Kanom, but also with the lingering memories of wine pairings, sato, and food stories that stay with you long after the meal is over.

What struck me throughout was not just the deliciousness of each dish, but the intention behind it. Chef Chalee isn’t just serving food, he’s preserving traditions, reimagining classics, championing sustainability and honouring ingredients in a way that feels deeply personal yet universally meaningful.

Wana Yook is a journey through Thailand’s culinary soul, guided by a chef who is doing far more than cooking, he is storytelling, preserving and pushing boundaries, all at once.

A perfect dinner isn’t just on the plate,  it is in the laughter, the stories and the food buddies who make every bite warmer.

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What happens when you have fire in your belly???

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Naar( fire) is created!!!

When I saw jars of ingredients brined and preserved with handwritten labels, I was convinced that I was at a place that uses ingredients available in and around their ecosystem to feed their guests.

Naar, a restaurant on the hills that creates dishes using Himalayan ingredients, is a game changer in the restaurant space. Be it a cocktail or a bar bite at the living room or the meal at the dining space, they all have that special ingredient that has a story,  a story about where the ingredients were sourced, what the significance of that ingredient is and how it was used. Quite a few ingredients on our plate and in our glass were sourced from a nearby place and how do I know it? Because every time the curious me asked Chef Kamlesh, “What is this leaf?” he would tell me about the leaf and point his finger to the greenery around the restaurant and tell me it came from there, he even walked there and got it for us.

The menu at Naar changes according to the season because some ingredients are seasonal, and when the food is focused on ingredients, it has to be seasonal.

I am an advocate of eating local and what I was thinking is the fact that we buy expensive caviar when we have a beautiful variety available in our own country. One of the dishes we had at Naar was trout roe/eggs/caviar served on banana custard with a dash of banana honey. This was my most favourite dish, and Naar is at the trout belt of India, they have made the best of this ingredient. While the fish was used to make the dirty toast, the roe was used to blow my mind. The dirty toast had our very own sourdough bread,  the Ladakhi khambir bread made using bansi wheat.

Can we Indians use trout roe over caviar? I will leave this as food for thought for people in the industry.

Another highlight ingredient for me was the cactus. I remember seeing these cacti in Goa as a child who wandered through the then quiet parts of South Goa. I would have not thought in my wildest dreams that I would have a broth made of cactus. I know, I know,  Mexican’s use it extensively, but in India, I had it for the first time.

Every dish at Naar has a story about its ingredients and everyone at Naar narrates the story beautifully, because they know,  since they work with each ingredient with love and passion, with an intention of giving the best to their guests.

How would I like to rate my experience at Naar? Well, a few things that matter to me and the way I look at food and experience: first, of course, the ingredients, the way the ingredients are loved, nurtured and harvested (this is not easy according to me), since in the hills there is a new discovery every once in a while.

The way the menu is curated, keeping the ingredients as the hero, and how a guest feels about it, whether it’s a dish or a cocktail.

The place/location,  this one is an absolute winner and couldn’t get better. We started at the living room that served us drinks and little somethings made with love and cuteness.

We moved to the dining room for our main course,  it felt like my maternal home where we would sit around the kitchen to have every meal.

The most important part of the experience: whether you are at the living room, the dining room or the restroom, each one of them overlooks the mountains. We were lucky to have a glimpse of snow-capped mountains. Now this, for me, is a complete dining experience.

Chef Prateek definitely has Naar (fire) in his belly to have built something so beautiful and unique for everyone to enjoy.

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Red Ant Chutney and Life Lessons: A Tale from Chikmagalur.

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When enterprising women from hills decide to carve their own path, extraordinary stories emerge. This is the story of Pavithra and her friend, two determined women from Mudigere, Chikmagalur, who brought the essence of Malnad cuisine to life. Their journey toward financial independence and preserving the region’s flavors through their restaurants is inspiring.

Our lunch at Hale Mane was a celebration of authentic, homestyle Malnad food:

Akki Roti: A traditional rice flour flatbread, perfectly crisp on the outside and soft inside, paired with Malnad Mutton curry
Akki Unde: Steamed rice dumplings, dense yet delicious, served a hint of ghee for a rich, earthy taste.
Mutton Curry: A spicy, slow-cooked dish infused with traditional Malnad spices, offering tender, juicy pieces of mutton in a flavourful gravy.
Fish Curry: Fresh fish cooked in a tangy, mildly spicy coconut-based gravy, highlighting the coastal influence in Malnad cuisine.
Fish Fry: Tawa fried fish fry with some flavourful tangy Malnad masala.

The next day, our breakfast at Malnad Mane Atithya was just as exceptional, featuring an array of traditional dishes:

Mangalore Buns: Soft, slightly sweet, deep-fried banana puris that were warm and comforting, perfect with coconut chutney.
Shevige: Delicate, hand-pressed rice noodles served with a mild green kurma, offering a wholesome and light start to the meal.
Thatte Idly: Thick, fluffy idlis that melted in the mouth, served with sambar and spicy chutney.
Akki Unde: A repeat from the previous day, but this time paired with a green kurma for a fresh twist.
What made the breakfast truly special were Pavithra’s personal touches:

Red Ant Chutney: A rare delicacy made famous by her appearance on the Gordon Ramsay show, this chutney combined the tangy zest of red ants with traditional Malnad spices.
Horse Gram Chutney: A labour-intensive dish taking two days to prepare, packed with robust flavors and a nutty undertone.
Bamboo Shoot Stir Fry: Tender bamboo shoots sautéed with spices, offering a unique crunch and a taste reminiscent of the forest.
We ended the meal with piping hot tea and coffee, brewed with fresh milk from Pavithra’s own farm, adding an unparalleled freshness to the experience.

This journey into Malnad cuisine was not just about food but also about the love, dedication, and authenticity that Pavithra and her friend poured into every dish. Their passion for preserving the region’s culinary heritage was truly heartwarming.

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When Luxury Meets Heritage at The Lotus Palace, Chettinad

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The Lotus Palace in Karaikudi is where history and luxury seamlessly blend to create an unforgettable experience. Built in the 17th century, this 233-year-old architectural marvel, located 72 km from Trichy airport and 14 km from Karaikudi junction, was our home for two enchanting nights. Thanks to The Park Hotel’s efforts, this heritage mansion has been beautifully restored while maintaining its original charm.

The Lotus Palace in Karaikudi is where history and luxury seamlessly blend to create an unforgettable experience. Built in the 17th century, this 233-year-old architectural marvel, located 72 km from Trichy airport and 14 km from Karaikudi junction, was our home for two enchanting nights. Thanks to The Park Hotel’s efforts, this heritage mansion has been beautifully restored while maintaining its original charm.

Lunch at “86 Pillars” was another highlight. Named after the property’s 86 pillars, this dining experience was like being a guest at someone’s home. Karpagam and Ramachandran meticulously arranged our banana leaf and the feast that followed was a culinary journey through Chettinad’s traditional flavors. We were treated to fish, prawn, mutton, chicken, variety rice, parotta, vegetables, chutney, fish curry, chicken curry, sambar, rasam, curd, papadam, and payasam. Each dish was prepared with authenticity and we savoured every bite.

 The evenings at The Lotus Palace are simply magical, especially in the Red Room. Bathed in the deep, rich tones of Burmese red lacquer, this room celebrates the opulent Chettiar heritage and provides a cosy, intimate space. Exclusively for in-house guests, we indulged in a sophisticated high tea with a platter of traditional snacks, including fried idly, paniyaram, raw banana fritters, rose cookies and egg puffs, followed by a tumbler of piping hot tea. It was a delightful way to wind down the day.

Our last morning at The Lotus Palace was tinged with emotion as we prepared to head home. The staff, however, ensured that we left on a high note with another memorable breakfast: Mutta dosa (egg dosa) with Chettinad fish curry, a fitting send-off meal that left us completely satisfied.

What truly stood out to us was how The Lotus Palace preserved its heritage while incorporating modern luxuries. Despite the mansion’s age, every detail was carefully managed to respect its historical integrity. The seamless integration of old and new is what makes this place extraordinary.

My heartiest gratitude to Darshini Ashok Director PR, The Park Hotels Chennai for helping us book the stay at The Lotus Palace, Karaikudi

Our time at The Lotus Palace was nothing short of magical and I can’t wait to return for another glimpse into its timeless charm.

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Rediscovering the flavours from the Royal kitchen of the Nawab of Arcot at the palace, Amir Mahal, Chennai.

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An evening of rediscovering the history of Amir Mahal and their food using heirloom recipes.

Our heartfelt gratitude to Nawab Mohammed Abdul Ali, Nawabzada Mohammed Asif Ali and their entire family for extending their palace to recreate some untold memories.

This one was very special for me since it was not only regional or micro cuisines that I usually hunt for, but royal food from the kitchen of the Nawabs of Arcot.

Zaika-e- Amir Mahal was a collaboration between Hyatt Regency Chennai, Soul On A Plate by Yogita Uchil and Amir Mahal. I would also like to say kudos to the entire team at Hyatt Regency Chennai.

When we started planning this event one thing we were very sure about was that we will showcase everything including the food the way it was and the palace. We did not want to alter any flavours just for the delight of the guests but wanted our guests to understand the flavours of the palace’s heirloom recipes.

The team at Hyatt Regency Chennai under the leadership of Ruban Das was all set to take on the challenge. Chef Manish and his team worked on the food when Varun and team worked on the service, while Saurav and Kimberly took care of the event coordination. This event was created with style, royalty and elegance.

Team Hyatt Regency

On the D day 3rd February at around 7 pm when we arrived at Amir Mahal, we were welcomed by fire torches on both sides of the pathway it was as if we were entering a different Era and now this was something to be thought of, entering the palace door Jasmine and itar ( perfume) was presented to us and ofcourse a photo booth that captured the moment.

Finally a picture with the chefs who worked very Hard behind the scenes, chef Manish and team take a Bow!

The energy, color, music and chit chats in the huge hall with tall ceilings were melody to the ears and a grandeur to experience.

We had quite a few people from the consulate to the ministers to the royals at the gathering. The prince of Arcot Nawab Mohammed Abdul Ali and his son Nawabzada Mohammed Asif Ali welcomed all the guests with their warm welcome speech followed by the beautiful piece of music by the Nawabzada.

The welcome drink Aab-e- bahaar (a tender coconut drink with honey and mint) and litchi anar sherbet was as refreshing as the place. We had an array of appetisers that were passing around in royal serving platters with enough choice for vegetarians and non vegetarians. My favourite of course was their authentic and traditional kolsa kebab and roti kheema. Also here would like to mention that the service staff who were so well groomed were students from IHM Chennai.

In the main course of course it was my most favourite Arcot mutton biryani, the interesting combination for this was not the usual brinjal salna but a bitter gourd salna and this enhenced the flavour of the biryani all together ( frankly this was my first experience having bitter gourd salna with mutton biryani) two very interesting dishes that i have never ever had before, one being Ambadey ki bhaaji ( tender mutton chunks with roselle leaves) and the lal baingan anda jhinga ( eggs and prawn in Tomato gravy) who would even imagine a dish with prawn and egg really!!!

Badam halwa, pheni, Amrit phal and sevaiyan thalko was the sweet royal finish to this beautiful night as we stood at the porch and enjoyed piping hot masala chai and paan.

The desserts